Erwin, TN

So it has been awhile since we have had a cell signal, electricity, and time to update this blog all at the same time. We appreciate all the comments, both here and on facebook, please keep them coming, it keeps us going! Apologies for not always being able to respond.

Our last update left us at Fontana Dam, the southern entrance to the Smokies (GSMNP). We were fortunate in our timing to make it through the 70 miles of park in 6 days without a drop of rain. I didn't think that could happen. A major hurdle in your northbound thru-hike is getting through the Smokies, as they contain the highest point on the entire trail (Clingman's Dome @ 6655'), and so the weather can be a little bit harsher up there, especially in Spring. We were lucky. When you enter the park you gain the ridgeline and stay up there for about 70 miles, and there is nowhere to escape bad weather except at one place in the middle at Newfound Gap. We did have difficulty on the northern slopes of Clingman's Dome and Mt. Collins, as they were covered in snow and ice and going steeply downhill as the trail does posed quite the challenge. We entered the park on 4/6 and made it to Davenport Gap, the northern exit, on 4/11. We both liked the northern half of the park better, as the trail goes along more knife-edge ridgelines and you have many more views on both sides of you as you straddle the TN/NC border.

I have failed to mention up until this point that in a way there have been three of us along on this trip. One of Wander's lifelong friends, Toni, passed away two months before we left for the trail. One of her favorite places was the Smokies, and we have been carrying some of her ashes since the beginning of our hike with the intention of spreading them there. When we reached Newfound Gap, in the middle of the Smokies and a favorite spot of Toni, we did just that and said a little prayer for her. So, if you ever find yourself at Newfound Gap, be sure to say hello to Toni.

Leaving Davenport Gap, we had basically 3 days to Hot Springs, NC, and then 6 days to Erwin, TN. Wander and I had gone from Springer to Erwin back in 2005, and we also did a shakedown trip from Erwin to Davenport Gap in 2004, so this was actually the third time that we have walked this 100-mile stretch. Somehow I don't remember this section being so tough, but it is kicking everyone's butt. We are excited to finally get past Erwin. We stopped by Standing Bear Hostel for a night, and spent a day at Hot Springs, the first true trail town that you walk directly through. We passed over the first bald mountains along the trail, Max Patch and Big Bald the more impressive ones.

On Monday morning, 4/22, we made it to Erwin, TN, mile 342. As we go along, many of the other thru-hikers pass us along the trail, as they are younger and faster, so a few days ago it was surprising to us to meet again a group that we started with back in Georgia. We assumed they were a few days in front of us. There is some type of Norovirus going around on the trail, getting you sick for 24-48 hours, and a lot of hikers are getting this.  That is what happened to this group, and they were just getting back on the trail after spending three days in Erwin. Many thru-hikers are catching this virus, but so far Wander and I have escaped this plague. We knew about it in advance of this section, and have been especially careful. So far, so good.

Unfortunately, Erwin is spread out for the hiker, but we managed to do all of our town chores on one trip from the motel. This morning I am trying to scramble to remember the events of the last two weeks and write them down here before our shuttle back to the trailhead arrives. At least I get to use the motel computer and a real keyboard! We are a little bit behind our posted maildrop schedule, but are still looking at getting to VA by the beginning of May. We have been on the trail over a month now but it does not seem that way. That is about all for now, as we still have to pack up and get out of our room. The end of TN/NC is in sight...